The Côte d’Azur is synonymous with two things, its sunny weather and Mediterranean climate. However little beknown, the sur-mer destinations aren’t just all the region has to offer, and in fact, the complete opposite. When in Nice, I took a day-trip into the haut-pays, specifically, the Train des Merveilles up the Roya Valley to Tende. And I’ll tell you now, this far surpassed the excitement of all other destinations I visited along the Côte d’Azur!
In my travel guide to a Train des Merveilles day-trip from Nice, I share everything to know about visiting the area. First, I’ll cover what actually is the Train des Merveilles, where it goes, how much tickets cost, and how long it takes. Next, I’ll share what I did on my day-trip, what I thought, and then what I would do next time. Also, there are so many gorgeous villages to visit, so I’ll share a quick guide to the best ones too. Start planning your day trip into the Alps with my travel guide now, it’s for sure an experience you won’t forget!!
What’s in this Post? – Table of Contents
A Brief Intro to Le Train des Merveilles
As I’ve said, a journey on Le Train des Merveilles boasts a very different day-trip one can take from the Côte D’Azur. The train picks you up at Nice Ville Train Station, winding through many villages on its way to beautiful Tende (the town at the peak of the mountain pass from France to Cuneo/Piedmont, Italy). Below I have attatched a map of the train route & stops (Nice to Tende is 2h 15m).
Whether you’re into nature, walking, getting off the beaten track, gorgeous villages or meeting locals, a Les Merveilles day-trip is a must for you. Quite literally translating to ‘The Wonders‘, the places the train stops offer some of the most picturesque hidden gems in Southern France.
Tip: On-board commentary in French and English is provided on the Train des Merveilles every day from June to September and at weekends in May and October
Now, there are many day-trips you can take here, be it hiking in the Mercantour National Park, a stroll around multiple picturesque villages, or discovering an archaeological treasure trove. However, for organisation’s sake, I will discuss my experiences in December 2023, stopping at Tende and Breil-sur-Roya on a return trip from Nice. This way you can learn, adapt, and plan an itinerary based on how you wish to truly uncover this region.
How I Spent 1 Day – Le Train des Merveilles
The Train Ride (Nice to Tende)
Leaving Gare Nice Ville early Saturday morning, I hoped I had all my ducks in a row for perfect weather (and the chance of snow). A single seat and quiet cabin on the Train des Merveilles left me with my thoughts as the train dwindled its way toward the alps. This was my first adventure throughout my 8 weeks in Nice throughout winter of 2023/4, and know now it was quite a different adventure compared to a short trip along the Côte D’Azur.
The morning’s train trip, was and quite frankly, indescripable. I have never seen landscape changes so quick in my life, especially as Nice’s crowds fizzled out to quaint villages and national park. On both sides of the train, spots on the map such as Peillon, L’Escarène and Sospel unfolded before stopping at Breil-sur-Roya, unofficial gateway village to the Roya Valley and Mercantour.
After Breil-sur-Roya, you’re in the true haut-pays (high country). Le Train des Merveilles slogs it up the hillside, performing full 360’s, revolving up, down, in and around tunnels. You’ll then pass villages yet even more higher up than you, including Saorge or La Brigue, within rural medieval settings truly breathtaking – even moreso with the bronzed hues of late autumn. Then, 2.5 hours after Nice, you’ll arrive in Tende – the heart of the Mercantour National Park.
Exploring Tende
I had timed my visit lucky, booking train tickets a few days before having seen snow in the forecast and Mother Nature was in my favour. Tende was transformed into a winter wonderland, and pulling into the village was by far one of the most magical experiences throughout my time in France.
After a quick exit into the slushy village square, Tende unfolded to be a very typical, quaint village in the Alps. Despite today being one everyone spent indoors, tourists still quite contently found their way around the narrow, winding, cobblestone streets held together by the mountain-side and tight dwellings. Tende was very easy to navigate and I found my way up to the clock tower at the top of the village within no time.
Here, not only was I surprised with views over Tende’s section of valley, but also just about one of the most breathtaking cemeteries (in the world?). Graves were entire garden huts ingrained into the hills above Tende, overlooking their descendants who still nurture the village they call home today. I then continued further up the walking track to a bench where I ate lunch (I would have continued if I had longer). Just be prepared for a fright when the clock tower strikes.
I descended into Tende’s labyrinth of alleyways, having them all to myself. Wandering aimlessly, I stopped off at the Church (Collégiale Notre-Dame-Assomption), Roya river, and even stumbled into a multistorey carpark. I then made a beeline for the Musée des Merveilles, the fantastic local museum with everything you could learn about local history, as well as the Mercantour National Park. The Musée des Merveilles is very new, modern and interactive. I spent an hour here, and it’s a must for those visiting Tende (best of all, admission is free).
My 3 hours in Tende were quickly filled in, and after a needed cappuccino and pain au chocolat at the boulangerie, I caught the train back down to Breil-sur-Roya.
Exploring Breil-sur-Roya
I re-boarded the Train des Merveilles following my three hours in Tende, ready to head to my next stop, Breil-sur-Roya. When booking my tickets using trainline, I wanted to add another village, so which I chose Breil, where the trains from France and Italy meet before passing over the lower Alps to Cuneo and Piedmont.
Breil-sur-Roya was a sleepy village, although I quickly discovered how much of a summertime hotspot it is, abundant with temporarily-shut accommodation and water sports providers. Thankfully, my visit coincided with annual Christmas markets and community carol service that evening, otherwise I would’ve finished far too quick.
It was a 5 minute walk down to the bridge traversing the crystal-blue Roya River, just before you hit the village centre. I walked around a few of the sleepy cobblestone streets, realising how the village fits a few more people than it first seemed.
The streets led me to the markets on the square, where the Breil-sur-Roya community gathered for one night only, with arts and delicacies of all kinds. I spent my time souvenir searching, eventually picking up a carved ceramic dish for my sister. I missed the carol service and children’s nativity show so I could make my train, however Breil-sur-Roya’s church was decorated beautifully, but still worth a look all-year round.
Originally, I had intentions of visiting the Ecomusée du Haut Pays et des Transports (High Country and Transport Museum), although turns out it is only open from May to September, despite google posting year-round hours! This did mean I could take a walk on the industrial side of Breil to get some opposing views as the sun set and lights came on. I caught my train at 5:30pm, sunk into my seat for the 1 hour ride back to Nice, by which it was fully dark, with the entire carriage to myself.
Bottom Line – Train des merveilles
My day-trip from Nice on the Train des Merveilles to Tende and Breil-sur-Roya proved itself to be marvellous. A leisurely start from Gare Nice Ville and a quiet atmosphere onboard made for an all the more breathtaking journey. Stepping off at Tende, the scenery for this part of France was something I never thought could change so quickly! Keeping in mind my trip was in winter, I already knew there would be more up here I still want to explore.
I feel for the time of year, I had pulled off the best day trip I could with cooler temperatures and shorter days. However, if I went again, I would try to go in summer, and see more of the small villages.
Doing it on foot is one of the most popular options, and you could be dropped off in Tende, walk back down to La Brigue and even St-Dalmas-de-Tende. A summertime hike like this would be for sure epic, and spread out any day nicely, allowing for more scenery, picnics and some exercise along the way.
I would also be keen to explore Saorge, an impressive medieval village in mountain cliffs you look up to from the train below. I chose not to stop here due to confusion of getting from the train station to Saorge village (I did later learn that you can walk through the tunnel enroute, but you must bring a torch).
Lastly, if you want to learn as much about the local history as possible, I highly recommend joining a tour. On my train, there was an english-speaking tour at the front of the carriage which I listened into, and really wish I was a part (the passionate guide had them stopping for a tour in 3 villages, plus a multi-course restaurant lunch in Tende!). You can book the exact same tours here on GetYourGuide, for the ultimate Train des Merveilles tour and experience.
Popular Train des merveilles Q&A’s
Below, I will answer a few burning questions many have before booking their Train des Merveilles day-trip…
Is a Train des Merveilles day-trip accessible and/or suitable for kids?
A Train des Merveilles day-trip has to be one of the absolute best things to do in the South of France with kids. Why? Simply because it is accessible, quiet, and without the stressful crowds of the Côte D’Azur. Let their imaginations flow on the train whilst looking out the windows from the spacious seats. They then will love a walk around the quirky alleyways of villages (especially Tende).
This is likewise for disabled tourists, as the Train des Merveilles, all its stations, and the bigger towns are easy to walk around, although some of the smaller ones you may wish to check. The only thing I don’t recommend is bringing a wheelchair up here, and if you do, Tende should be the only place you plan to visit.
How to Book a Train des Merveilles day-pass?
Did you know there is much more affordable and flexible way to experience the Train des Merveilles? The Train des Merveilles day pass (unlimited journeys/Pass ZOU!) costs 15€ per person and is valid for all journeys on the Train des Merveilles line between Nice and Tende. They are available at the Gare Nice Ville and online or at any stations enroute. More information can be found on SNCF’s website here.
Should I take the Train des Merveilles from Nice to Cuneo?
Yes, this is a fantastic way to experience both an area of France and Italy little explored. It can seem a little complicated trying to buy a single ticket (without stopping) from Nice to Cuneo, as you will be re-routed by Ventimiglia to change from SNCF onto Trenitalia (then head back over to Breil-sur-Roya).
However, you will want to experience the full Train des Merveilles, so book all legs on SNCF between Nice and Tende, then book a Trenitalia ticket for after Tende. You can’t travel domestically in France on Trenitalia. Again, this is where Trainline comes in extremely handy, as you can book multi-sector tickets all at once with their multistop tool! See the route map above to see compare where Trenitalia stops on the Ventimiglia to Cuneo route.
Enjoyed this article? Read more at Cloud09 Travel and don’t forget to follow us on Social Media!
